Lamb, Root Vegetables, and a Very Confused Shepherd: The Supply Chain Saga Behind Our Irish Stew
Photo by Photo by Mila on Unsplash on Unsplash
There's a moment in every Irish stew conversation at Paddy's where someone from Boston squints at the bowl and asks the question that's been haunting our kitchen since day one: how?
How does a pub on a tropical island, surrounded by nasi goreng and nasi campur, serve a stew that would make a grandmother in County Galway nod approvingly? The short answer is stubbornness. The long answer involves a head chef named Wayan, a lamb farmer named Pak Ketut, and a root vegetable situation we're still not fully over.
Meet the Man Who Argues With the Menu
Chef Wayan has never been to Ireland. He has, however, watched enough YouTube videos of Irish grandmothers making stew to develop opinions about them. Strong opinions.
"The internet ladies are very strict," he told me, ladling stock with the focus of a heart surgeon. "No peas. Never peas. I learned this the hard way." (There was an incident in 2022. We don't talk about the incident.)
Wayan's philosophy is simple: respect the bones of the dish, adapt the geography. Ireland has sheep, root vegetables, rain, and despair. Bali has sheep, root vegetables, sunshine, and better traffic. Three out of four ain't bad.
The Lamb Situation Is Genuinely Great
Here's the part nobody expects: the lamb is local. Genuinely, unapologetically local.
Pak Ketut raises sheep about 15 miles inland, up where the air cools off and the terraced hills look suspiciously like something out of a postcard from County Kerry. His flock grazes on grass that would make a New Zealand farmer weep with envy, and when Wayan needs shoulder cuts for the stew, he texts. That's it. That's the supply chain. A text message and a scooter ride.
Compare that to the American import model — where your "local" beef at a supermarket in Ohio may have traveled further than most honeymooners — and the whole thing starts to feel like a joke we're not in on.
"I visited a supermarket in California once," Pak Ketut said through Wayan, who doubles as translator. "The lamb had a birthdate. I did not know meat could have a birthdate." He found this hilarious. He's not wrong.
The Great Root Vegetable Identity Crisis
Now, potatoes. Ireland's official emotional support vegetable. Bali grows potatoes, but not the floury, fall-apart-in-stew varieties that make an Irish stew what it is. So Wayan did what any reasonable chef would do: he conducted a root vegetable census.
The winners? A combination of local potatoes from the Bedugul highlands — cooler climate, decent starch content — supplemented with cassava and taro, cousins of the potato in the loosest, most extended-family sense. The taro, honestly, is a revelation. It breaks down into the broth and thickens it in a way that would get Wayan canonized in some Irish villages.
"The taro stays," Wayan said, in a tone that ended the discussion. "The internet ladies approved." High praise from the strictest judges on YouTube.
Parsley, onions, and leeks come from the morning market in Denpasar, picked over at 5 a.m. by Wayan himself, because he doesn't trust anyone else's thyme-picking standards. Fair.
The Twice-a-Year Import Run
Everything has an exception, and ours arrives in a shipping container roughly every six months. There are a few things — proper black pudding, real cheddar, a specific brand of tea that shall remain nameless for legal reasons — that simply cannot be faked or sourced locally.
The import run is treated in the kitchen like a national holiday. Boxes get opened with ceremony. Staff who've been with us for years still gather around when the tea arrives. It's part Christmas morning, part hostage negotiation with customs officials.
But the core of the stew — the lamb, the vegetables, the stock bones — never leaves the island. Twenty miles, give or take. From Balinese hillside to Irish bowl, no passport required for the ingredients, just for the recipe.
So Is It Authentic?
Define authentic. If authentic means "made with ingredients that traveled farther than the person eating them," then no. If it means a bowl of slow-cooked comfort that makes a homesick expat from Chicago go quiet for a full ninety seconds — then yes. Emphatically, yes.
Wayan puts it best: "Ireland is in the method. Bali is in the market. The stew is in the middle."
Come taste the middle. It's on the stove every day, and it's never had a birthdate.